Requirements - Tropical temperatures of 80-92 degrees and not to drop below 75 degrees (use a thermometer). The enclosure should allow the snake to stretch out half of its body length and a width around a third of the animals length. Enclosure should be free of sharp edges and easy to clean. You should provide a water bowl (big enough for the snake to fully submerge itself), a hide box or shelter for the snake to hide under (in the heated side of the enclosure), a climbing limb that has been treated, a suitable substrate ( newspaper, reptile carpeting, paper towels or paper bags are acceptable) as the snake may swallow their substrate, use caution when deciding what to put in their cage. You want to have only one end of the enclosure heated, so the snake can escape the heat to thermo regulate itself (or cool itself off ). Overhead heat lamps are best, you should not ever use a heat rock, the snake will burn itself on it ! Heat the enclosure for 12 hours then turn of the heat source for 12 hours. Continuous light and heat will cause stress on the snake. Be sure the enclosure is escape proof, if there is a way out the snake will find it !

Diet - Mice, rats, guinea pigs, rabbits, chickens, and pygmy goats. Increase the snakes food size as it gets bigger. Should be fed at least once every 10 to 15 days as young, with adults going from 3 weeks to months between large meals. 

Size and Life Span - Lengths of 15 feet and over are common, and may exceed 25 feet in captivity. Females have a larger size potential. They may live 25 years or more in captivity, if properly cared for.

Difficulty Level - Intermediate, and the keeper should have a basic understanding of pythons and other snakes before keeping is to be attempted.